The time has come - Everest weather window is open!

The highly anticipated weather window on Mt. Everest has officially opened, marking the start of the brief but critical period when climbers can safely attempt to reach the world's highest summit. This window offers a rare break in the brutal jet stream winds and sub-zero temperatures that dominate Everest’s upper slopes.

We had an early dinner at 6 PM today. After breakfast at midnight (12 AM), we'll leave Base Camp around 1 AM for Camp 2. We've packed poop bags for Camps 3 and 4, and we've also picked up dehydrated meals since there are no kitchens at those camps—just access to hot water. I am also carrying the laddos my mother made, energy gels, protein bar and electrolytes. 

We had fresh snowfall this evening, which changed the atmosphere around camp—everything looks pristine now.

A video before the night set in 

There are 10 people in my team, including myself:

1. Jitendra - Austin, USA
2. Soumen – West Bengal, India
3. Dwarka – Maharashtra, India
4. Dr. Seema – Maharashtra, India
5. Young – China
6. Amol – New Jersey, USA
7. Luson Rai – Georgia, USA
8. Roman – Czech Republic
9. Milan – Czech Republic
10. Vijay – Australia (has exited the expedition)

Tonight, four of us are setting out—three from my tent group: Soumen, Dwarka, and myself, and one from another group: Julia from Switzerland.

2 pm rule for summit-

The climber should reach the summit of Mount Everest before 2 pm. If a group or team cannot reach the summit before 2 o'clock, then they must abandon the summit and proceed to descend before it's too late.

Some data on oxygen usage as it is the lifeline for the climb:

At extreme altitudes (above 7,000 m / 23,000 ft), oxygen levels drop to 30–33% of sea level. Supplemental oxygen helps prevent hypoxia, frostbite, HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema), and HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). It dramatically increases chances of summiting safely and surviving descent.

Most climbers use 2–4 liters per minute (LPM) while climbing, sometimes up to 6 LPM during summit push. A climber may use 3–5 bottles (cylinders) per summit attempt (each bottle ~4 liters at 300 bar = 1,200 liters of oxygen). Oxygen is often started from Camp 3 or 4 (7,000 m+) on Everest or similar peaks.

Each bottle weighs 3–4 kg, so carrying multiple adds substantial load. Sherpas often help ferry oxygen to higher camps ahead of the climb.

On Everest, the complete oxygen systems can cost $3,000–$5,000+ per climber.

Oxygen training by Lakpa Sherpa yesterday

The two main routes to the summit are the Southeast Ridge from Nepal and the Northeast Ridge from Tibet. The Southeast Ridge is the more popular route, first successfully climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa of Nepal, in 1953. 

My Everest Climb Route – Southeast Ridge (Nepal)

1. Base Camp to Camp 1

Altitude: ~6,065 m (19,900 ft)
Distance: ~4.5 km
Time: 5–7 hours

Terrain: Through the Khumbu Icefall — slow and technical due to ladders, crevasses, and seracs.
Most dangerous section — climbed early morning when ice is more stable.

2. Camp 1 to Camp 2

Altitude: ~6,400 m (21,000 ft)
Distance: ~2.5–3 km
Time: 3–4 hours

Terrain: Crossing the Western Cwm, flat but exhausting due to intense sun reflection (heat trap)

3. Camp 2 to Camp 3

Altitude: ~7,200 m (23,600 ft)
Distance: ~1.8–2.0 km
Time: 4–6 hours

Terrain: Steep climb on the Lhotse Face, using fixed lines and crampons; physically demanding

4. Camp 3 to Camp 4 (South Col)

Altitude: ~7,920 m (26,000 ft)
Distance: ~1.5–2 km
Time: 5–7 hours

Terrain: Continued climb on ice/rock mix, exposed to strong winds enters the Death Zone above 8,000 m

Camp 4 to Summit

Summit Altitude: 8,848.86 m (29,031.7 ft)
Distance: ~1.7–2.0 km (but feels much longer due to altitude)
Time: 8–12+ hours ascent, 4–6 hours descent

Route Features:

• Balcony
• South Summit
• Hillary Step (partially collapsed)
• Final Ridge

Total Time (One-Way) from Base Camp to Summit:

~25–35 hours of climbing time, done over several days (not including rest days or rotations). This is ideal timing, it varies depending on physical, mental, emotional states, and, most importantly, the whims of the weather gods.

So long—until we return.